Yakamoz 1/4 Inch Shank Rabbeting Router Bit with 6 Bearings Set for Multiple Depths 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2"

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Yakamoz 1/4 Inch Shank Rabbeting Router Bit with 6 Bearings Set for Multiple Depths 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2"

Yakamoz 1/4 Inch Shank Rabbeting Router Bit with 6 Bearings Set for Multiple Depths 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2"

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V-bits as with most other decorative cutting bits come in a range of different shapes and angles that can be used to form everything from a deep thin channel to a wide shallow one. Again it’s generally used for forming decorative grooves in many different objects such as table tops, table and chair legs and various aspects of cabinet making and the similar. A lot of timber we buy over here is 19mm, isn't it? How best do we cut a rabbet that's 19mm wide by some depth? I'd have thought a router bit was the way to go.

Rabbet cutting router bit and rabbet or shoulder joint cut – Image courtesy of mullerconstructionsupply.com Edge Cutting Router Bits As with all other bits that produce accurate cuts, the rounding bit also includes a bearing guide at the base that is also used to control the depth of cut. Due to this rounding bits also normally include a range of different sized bearings that can be swapped out depending on the depth of cut required. The final main element of a router bit is the bearing guide that normally features at the base or tip of a bit but can sometimes appear at the top. Due to this if the profiles are cut the same then essentially a rounded off joint will fit into a cove-cut joint.

Router Bit Types

Very similar to a chamfer cutting bit, the rounding over router bit is generally used to round off sharp and acute edges to leave a nice smooth and rounded one.

What distinguishes these bits from others (like a straight bit used for rabbeting) is the addition of a circular pilot bearing at the bit’s tip that acts like a spinning wheel riding along the edge of the piece being cut, guiding the cutting arm to the perfect depth. As a result, the width of the cut is determined by the size of the bearing, with a smaller bearing producing a wider cut. The most common sizes of rabbet bits are 1¼ inches and 1⅜ inches, and most bits come with several interchangeable bearings ranging from ⅜-inch to 1⅛ inches. Glue joint bits assist joining two pieces of material by creating identical, adjoining tongues on the edge of both pieces. The notched cuts create plenty of surface area for gluing and form a tight-fitting joint that holds the pieces together while they’re being clamped. They’re available in two varieties: standard and mitered. The standard glue joint joins squared edges, while the mitered bit is made with a 45-degree angle to join two mitered edges. The worst base for this sort of work is actually the standard fixed base, which has a very small footprint and only takes Makita's own guide bush (which is 9.5 or 10mm from memory, AFAIK no other sizes available). It isn't difficult to make a larger (more stable) sub base from acrylic plastic (Perspex, Lucite, etc) or polycarbonate (Lexan, etc), in any shape you like, such as an egg shape with an offset handle. A better base for your purposes is the plunge base, which can be set up to allow repeatable depth cuts. It is more stable, too, because it has a bigger footprint than the fixed base, and has the advantage of being able to take Porter-Cable guide bushes when used with a commonly available adaptor. That gives you the ability to do template routing with a selection of guide bushes. The plunge base can also be used with the same micro adjustable side fence that is sold for the Makita RP1110 router (and is compatible with other fences from Bosch and DW)Most routers these days come with interchangeable 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch collets so you can swap between the different sizes if needed, however this isn’t always the case with the smaller palm routers as most only take the 1/4 inch shanks. The chamfer or bevel cutting bit is commonly used for shaping the edges of objects such as book shelves, work tops and table tops and any other object where a sharp 90° edge needs to be removed. The straight cutting router bit is arguably the most commonly used type of router bit. As the name suggests it’s used for cutting straight cuts with a flat base e.g. the channels at the side of drawers that the drawer bottom sits in and certain timber joints such as a lapped joint. Due to the nature of a bearing and it’s very smooth rotation, this helps to avoid the router bit juddering or jumping around, keeping any cuts dead straight and accurate to the surface you are working on. The v-groove bit is very similar to the core cutting bit above but rather than leaving a rounded shape, the v-bit cuts a “V” shaped channel that runs down to a point.

The depth of the cut is determined by the size of bearing fixed to the base of the bit and due to this, rabbet bits normally come with a selection of different sized bearings so that you can cut a range of different depth joints.

What are the Different Parts of a Router Bit?

However their main purpose is for creating decorative edges commonly used on tables, doors of various types, shelves and the similar. As with chamfer bits, it’s generally used on the edges of shelves, tabletop and cabinet edges the arms of chairs and any other area that requires a smooth edge. To be fair, I've only really used my router for putting nice edges on right-angled pieces of wood, plus my latest attempt at a rabbet. What I would like to do, though, is (realising that I must bite the bullet for building some jig / sled type thing) build myself a crosscut sled so I bought some 18mm plywood last night, and some wood for the runners and some for the fences... I do my work in the garden so if the weather holds out I'll give a crosscut sled for the Bosch GTS 10 J a go later today... Rabbet or shoulder joints are a common type of joint used when making furniture, specifically for building drawers and joining together cabinet framework.

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